|Artwork film||Mega Electronics LaserStar film||Element 14 895945 (pack of 10 A4)|
|PCB Material||Kinsten presentised boards||Sicom|
|Developer||Kinsten DP-50||Sicom||Comes in 50g sachets, add 10g to 400ml water|
|Etchant||Ammonium Persulphate||Jaycar 400g pot NC4254||Add 100g etchant to 375ml hot water|
Also kitchen scales, and dishes, photographers 10x8 developing trays are good for typical small sized PCBs, (perhaps from Patterson, stick with white), and being designed for rocking, they rock beautifully. Sadly, darkroom suppliers are getting a bit like Edsel salesmen, get them while you still can! A mixing tool like a disposable plastic knife. And a UV exposure box.
Most holes drill 0.8mm (30 thou). Use 1.3mm for bigger stuff like terminals.
Folks outside New Zealand and Australia: you can substitute locally available PCB materials and developer, but note that any process based on developing in Caustic Soda is going to be hit and miss, there are better and more consistant developers available, all of which are better than caustic soda.
Ferric Chloride can be used to etch instead of Ammonium Persulphate, it's nasty stuff, but it works, and is the normally used material.
Finally, the secret is the LaserStar film and a working, non-shagged 600dpi laser printer. This combination produces high quality artwork that delivers consistent results. Get poor original artwork, and its all downhill from there.